On The Ledge At Howelsen Hill
John’s Note: This is the second post in my series about Colorado, the place I call home (you can check out the first post here: Dispatches from Telluride). Though I spend a lot of time talking about the places I travel to in the US and abroad, the truth of the matter is that the travel doesn’t stop when I’m home. That’s why I’m working with Mountain Reservations to bring you one new destination from the Centennial State each month.
Thadump thadump thadump – the sound of my heartbeat gets louder with each step, so loud that I’m certain the older mustachioed man in front of me can hear it thumping against my rib cage with each step up the long staircase. But despite its quickening pace, I continue to climb step after step until I reach the top, staring 300 feet down one of the largest ski jumps in the United States.
I timidly peer over the ledge; it looks a lot steeper from the top of the mountain. With the well worn wood creaking beneath my feet, I shuffle closer to the ledge. I breathe deep, hold steady, tighten my grip….and fire the shutter on my camera.
Unlike many who make the journey up to the top of Howelsen Hill in Steamboat Springs, I’m most certainly NOT here to launch myself off a snow-and-ice covered ramp into the Colorado sky. There isn’t even a snowflake to be found on this sunny autumn afternoon. Instead, I’m here to take in the sweeping views of the valley from one of Steamboat’s most cherished icons.
Howelsen Hill is the oldest continuously operated ski resort in the state of Colorado. With only one chair lift, a seemingly paltry (by Colorado standards) 440 feet of vertical drop, and only a handful of alpine ski runs, Howelsen is often lost in the shadow of the much larger and glitzier Steamboat Springs Ski Resort just across the valley. But the importance of Howelsen Hill isn’t measured in runs or vertical feet.
The Hill has become an icon of the city, a living piece of history that dates back to Steamboat Springs’ days as a rugged mountain town where skiing was the only way to get around in the winter. Open since 1915, Howelsen has been the playground and training ground for generations of Steamboat Springs locals and visitors alike. 79 Olympians have honed their skills on Howelsen before taking on the world’s best.
Aside from the signature jumps, top athletes flock to Howelsen to train on the cross country ski trails, snowshoe through the wilderness, cut steep turns on alpine runs, and show off their tricks in the terrain park.
But when future Olympians aren’t defying death, the hill is open to curious visitors eager to get a glimpse for themselves. The best vantage point in town is from the top of Howelsen Hill, accessed via a short ride up the old chair lift – a symbol of Colorado’s simple skiing past before the days of high-speed quad lifts and heated gondolas.
From the top of the lift, it’s only a short walk over to the main attraction – the Olympic-sized ski jump. Staring down the jump on a sunny day without snow or skis still makes for a thrilling experience. From here, the entire town of Steamboat Springs is visible.
For those looking to get a taste of hurdling down the mountain (without the airtime), Howelson offers tamer alternatives. In the summertime, dueling alpine slides snake down the hill, while tubing becomes the preferred method of sliding once the snow starts to fall.
As I take in the commanding view from the top of the legendary ski jump, I can feel the nerves of the thousands of ski jumpers who have stood in this spot before me. Even without the snow, without the flashbulbs and bright lights, and without the impending fear of launching into the thin Colorado air, the experience is still enough to take my breath away – if only for a moment.
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12 Responses to On The Ledge At Howelsen Hill
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Ski jumping terrifies me. I remember seeing that for the first time at the Olympics years ago and being shocked that humans were soaring that high into the air. Someone’s going to die!, I thought. It’s cool to see the actual view from the top of the jump. Nice work.
Scott – Quirky Travel Guy recently posted..Life’s a beach in San Diego
That’s a lot of damn stairs, John! I went to Steamboat as a kid, but don’t remember much about it. I’m really enjoying all of your Colorado posts. They take me back to my childhood and remind me that I need to visit Colorado more often. I know how y’all love TEXANS.
Leah Travels recently posted..Central Texas: The Best in Texas Bar-B-Que
Our bread and butter! Especially in the more out-of-the-way places with airports like Steamboat, Telluride, etc.
I always figured the ski jump had to be steep, but WOW that’s crazy. Cool story though, and awesome that it still exists even with all of the mega resorts…
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..Epcot Food & Wine Festival Survival Guide
Sign me up for that luge stat. As for the ski jump, I think I might pass. Keep bringing the Colorado posts. We love them!
Tawny- Captain and Clark recently posted..We are headed to India as CheapOair’s Travelers of the Year!
I always preferred the winter olympics largely for two sports I think are just nuts. Ski Jump and the Luge. Yes, the alpine looks very do-able, but the look down that ski jump…. yikes. that’s adventurous.
stay adventurous, Craig
Craig Zabransky recently posted..Driving The Roads of Scotland – An Adventure in Itself
I can’t imagine anyone willingly launching themselves off of this thing, especially when it’s covered in snow. It’s an absolutely insane (yet fun to watch) sport.
I am no skier (think sprained ankles in childhood), but I could certainly try tubing and hiking! Colorado is quickly becoming one of my favorite states, after visiting Boulder, and I hope to read more about it here.
So keep the posts coming, John!
Pola (@jettingaround) recently posted..Photo of the Week: John Hancock Center in Chicago
I have skied in Steamboat and had no idea of the historic slope across town! Colorado does seem to have a lot of unique spots that only those who are lucky or do research (or reading blogs!) get to find out about!
Raul (@ilivetotravel) recently posted..Getting into the White House – A Tour Story
Agreed, Raul. There are so many little gems like Howelsen all throughout the state. I can’t wait to bring more to you guys each month as a part of this new series.
bahahaha that’s a big NO from us re: ski jumping. howelsen hill looks like a summer destination for us.
the lazy travelers recently posted..no travel required
hahaha I’ll agree with you there. It’s a great place to check out when it’s NOT slick and icy.